Green Grass eh?

Saturday morning, 4:53 am, wake up, get dressed and in the van.

26 mins road time and pull up at Freshwater carpark. Sun's coming up. No one out.

'It's pretty straight', said Dave, the night before. 'Supposed to spike over night...'

"It is pretty straight' I thought as I looked on and the sun rose. And no spike to be seen.

Maybe Curly? jumped in and scooted round the corner to be greeted with the shot you see...

Oh.

Back to Freshy. Dave was going to be out in the middle at the supposed infrequent but nicely shaped left and Lorenzo was going to meet us in the water.

One guy out. Dave. Always reliable and a staunch advocate of the 7 out of 10 rule.

Suited up and paddled out. Smaller than it looked and also getting quite full. No mysto left either.

Caught a couple of fat out, takeoffs. Noice (sic). The crowd within an hour of sunrise was overwhelming.

An hour and a half later, while enjoying a fantastic breakfast with Dave, overlooking the Bower (flat), it occurred to me I had gone to a lot of effort to highlight the supposed surf fest with a hearty meal.

The grass is always greener on the other side.

Damn right.

Countdown...

Nine and a half weeks to go...

slippery slope...

Well, its begun.

I just purchased a surfboard.

For the dollar value, I could have almost made three!!

I had been enjoying my favourite for some time now and was always wondering how it would feel with a different bottom shape...

This one came up on ebay. Pretty close to the dimensions I was contemplating so I thought well, why not. It's just one and it will keep me going for a bit.

'Just one'....'Can't hurt'....

Sound familiar?

Slippery slope amigos...

....sigh....

Well, now I'm 40, it's all happening.

The knee I have beaten and bashed over the last 22 years now needs to be looked at.

Its a constant pain and is really getting in the way of what I want to do.

Bloody motorbikes!!!

Anyone know a good sports physiotherapist?....

pass.

Supposed to be the 'Swell event of the year' today and into the night...

So...that means I will be on the beach.

The 'Bra or any sydney beachie for that fact doesn't handle big stuff real well and the banks are a bit ordinary....

Closeout city.

I'll take some photos if I get the chance though.

Well, there was a nice spike in swell over the weekend.

Not all time by any stretch but easily well overhead on Saturday, albeit cross shore.

Sunday dawned with the swell halved and accompanied by 50klm/hr offshores!!

Very hard work just gettin onto 'em but when you did, a few held open thanks to the wind...

Back to 2 ft, sorry chest to head high this morning but so few crew out, well worth a paddle..

looks like waves all week...nice.

Season over.

This time of year bums me a bit. Winter has done its dash..

Its getting warmer, sure, but that means the inevitable arrival of summer and 'so so' surf for months. Its nice being down the beach when its warm and it will be great to take our newborn down and spend the day lazing in the sun without even the slightest hint of temptation to grab a board and paddle out...
But I really want to surf as much as I can.
Funny how something as simple as catching waves can get you amped every day to get out of bed...

On the upside, I have retrieved some blanks which I had stored at my cousin's place. This might be just the thing to get me motivated to set up the bay and get some boards produced again..
Just in time for next Winter!!!