Monday, August 30, 2010

Motivated




Sometimes, I just am. Motivated that is.

I can find the energy to get up just before 5 on a cold morning to watch a Moto GP race then after the race (still dark), jump in the van and scoot down for a dawn paddle out even when the waves have all but gone. catch a few waves. (thats all there was!!) then get home for a well deserved breakfast..

The beautiful other half of my warm bed scenario is still asleep and get to have my first coffee and toast with the bear....
Wouldn't have it any other way. Nice
With the impending arrival of our first baby, I am perhaps being prepared for getting by on not a lot of sleep?!


Saturday, August 28, 2010

Temptations...


The concept of racing motorbikes again is becoming very tempting.
There are so many new classes which make it all the more appealing because one could literally roll up and race one's road bike.

"run what ya brung" is what we used say...

"Just have a go on whatcha got mate."

Now its all the more reality...
A lot less expensive to do just it that way.
Someone convince me it's a bad idea.


Please.






Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Evidence...


Just so you know, I don't call 'flat' flat unless there's nothing rideable.
At all.
Nothing to see hear folks...Move along...

Options



What do you do?

Its flat again and it looks like being that way for the rest of the week at least..
Even though Spring is a beautiful time of year, it also signals the change in weather patterns which usually translate into long flat spells...

Bummer.

So I dragged out the pushy. Time to cross train. Keep the legs and joints in check as well as maintain something resembling fitness for the odd day when the waves make an appearance.

Now, where are my tight, colourful shorts?...

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Dos Chicas...


My two girls...enjoying the morning sunshine...

New toy...


Just got a new camera...Wanted to post a shot.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

nice.




Not an epic day of surf to say the least but with an appropriate board....

The air had a distinctively 'spring' feel to it this morning. (yes Benno, only a couple more weeks of winter!!)
The water, though cold, was a pleasant contrast to the warm morning sun on your face as you scan the horizon for the onset of a rideable bump.
Ocassionally , I'd close my eyes and just enjoy the gentle roll of the small wind swell.

Fun surf.

Beautiful day.

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

yep, its all true!




As a follow up to my awesome 40th birthday post last week, I thought I would just put any doubts about my age resilience to rest.

I still can't sleep on my right shoulder.
The gravel rash on my elbow is still visible
My lower back still complains when I bend over... and

I am listening to Whitney Houston again.


Yep. Old man.

Thank Goodness...


This might be the sort of post you would expect to get as a cutesy email from the laydeez in the office.

But, no. Its from me and I have to say its all true.

Working from home with no one even within earshot can be quite mind numbing..

I am VERY grateful to have this bear like animal to keep me entertained and on days like these (when the swell isn't quite here yet...) gives me a perfect excuse to go outside..

This is Bell.

Friday, August 13, 2010

Hunting...


Today I am going to have a hunt around for a board for 'better' waves..

I have a design in mind but, by the time I get my bay up and running, Winter will be over!

So, I am not ceratin I will make a purchase but I am a very impulsive buyer when something gets my attention...

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Withdrawals...

I'm not having a good time here.
I really want to shape some boards.
What I can't believe is that, in the eastern suburbs,
there is no surfboard maunfacturing factories.
No space set up to shape bloody surfboards.
I just need a space and am willing to pay for it
but don't want to have to travel over to the northside to get it...

"4 foot mate"


Wave heights are a much discussed and debated topic.
I hate discussing them purely because with the majority of decent surfers (of which I am not one!) too much macho comes into the discussion and it inevitably become a pissing contest.
When I ask someone, for example, my mate Simon (who is a very accomplished swimmer and extremely comfortable in the ocean) how big is the surf today, I get the response:

'3 to 4 mate. Perfect for ya'

'Thanks Sime. I'm on my way'

In days now far gone, I would grab a suitable board and zip down to the beach expecting 3 to 4 foot of wave height...
Hahahaha! Who am I kidding?! 3 foot taller than me is not 3 to 4 foot!!!
There is an accepted vernacular when describing wave heights for most in Australia and that has come to be the norm.
So now when Sime tells me its three foot, I grab my good wave board because chances are it will nothing less than a 6 to 8 foot face.

Why not call it 6 to 8 feet? Good question.

A blase approach to waveriding is the goal it would seem for most punters. When it's twice your height in wave face, surfers seem to take pride in under calling it so as to seem very at ease with the size of waves they are riding. This seems to be even more the case in places like Hawaii where a wave under 'over head' is considered flat!!!

So, as I have become quite put off by people's description of wave heights, I now refuse to quote numbers and make all calls in reference to body height....No ambiguity there.

As Sime's eyesight is not real crash hot, especially in the pre dawn light, I am still rocking up to the beach with the wrong boards!!!!

Monday, August 9, 2010

Back where I started...





I for one am the worst when it comes to being satisfied with the way something works.
Because of my own shortfalls in the performance arena, I am always looking to better equipment to make up the difference.
Thats why I started shaping boards. A much more affordable way of going through the evolutionary process of finding a board that works a lot of the time for ME.
I shaped this board a few months ago and after enjoying rding it immensely for a month or so, I started to question whether or not I had actually stumbled upon a setup that was ready to help my surfing more than this one had already.
I hopped back on a couple of others. old favourites and new ideas...

But here I am after a fun morning surf and satisfied.

This one just plain works.

For me.

1970 Model...


Well, a couple of weeks ago, i turned 40.

I have never been one to make a big deal of my birthday and so it would come to pass that my beautiful girl would organise the most memorable birthday I could ever imagine.

What I assumed would be a small dinner with a couple of mates turned out to be a big do (with a dress theme!) with pretty much everyone I know, waiting to surprise me!

Boy, was I surprised! My good mates from Brisbane made the trip and all my family as well.

Awesome night that went too fast. I will remember it always though...

My sprained right shoulder from a quick revisit to my breakdancing days will make sure of that!

see my links list to go to the photos from the party.

Friday, August 6, 2010

Amped

Some days, most days I wake feeling pretty enthusiastic about a morning surf.

Today I was just that little bit more buzzed about getting wet early...
New fin setup in my favourite board was all I needed to get me motivated.
Sun woke me, Drew the blinds and the day had dawned beautifully clear and still..
Check buoys

Oh.

Thursday, August 5, 2010

New blood...




I used to race motorcycles.
many years ago and was very consumed by the whole sport/process.
I banged myself up and spent all my money on motorcycles for the best part of a decade.
Then I started surfing again and then shaping boards.
Once again, completely consumed.
Sheds not done. can't shape...
Naturally I was going to have a little look around for something to keep my mind occupied for the time being.


'hey, there's a nice motorbike in my garage' I said...
'Wonder how that would go round the racetrack?'..




here we go again.

possiblities...


This is the shed at the new digs.

Heaps of room. I was very motivated when i took this shot but unfortunately, the entire

shed is now filled with our furniture.

Two households. One house. There's going to be a bit of overflow!!


Still...I would like to get there and be producing sooner rather than later.

Fingers crossed.

Gonna try again...


haven't posted in well over two years. Bugger.

So much happening and well...life got away from me again!

This board is the last board manufactured in my shaping shed in Freshy...

lets hope its not the last, full stop!